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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://hdl.handle.net/10457/1192

Title: 東アフリカにおける民族服カンガの日常着としての受容に関する社会学的および生理学的考察
Other Titles: Sociological and Physiological Role of Kanga, Traditional Ordinary Clothing in East Africa
Authors: 深沢, 太香子
熊谷, 伸子
栃原, 裕
織本, 知英子
Issue Date: 30-Mar-2011
Citation: 服飾文化共同研究最終報告 2010 (2011-03) pp.65-82
Abstract: The aim of this study is to clarify, in terms of both sociological and physiological aspects, the reasons why females in East Africa usually wear the Kanga as their daily costume. According to the literature on the subject, the Kanga was first worn by free women in Swahili societies of East Africa in the period between 1870 and 1880. After slavery had been abolished under the British rule, the Kanga has been widely worn as clothes for daily wear by people of various classes and lineages. The Kanga has gradually acquired various social values, sometimes symbolizing unity of a community, and sometimes functioning simply as a commodity. After achieving independence from England, the Kanga has become a popular consumer product due to the facilitated full-scale domestic production. Some special features of the Kanga design are vivid coloring, the ever-appearing motif of flowering plants, and black bordering along with the sides. These features of the Kanga design have prominently formed and developed by domestic manufactures in order to match women’s tastes. Survey was also performed with about 300 Eastern African females in order to clarify consciousness, actual wearing situations, and image of folk costume Kanga. According to the Cluster analysis, wearing scene is found to be composed of “formal service” and “daily life”. That is, they indeed employ the Kanga as their daily wears, because the Kanga is recognised not only as convenient and functional tool, but also aesthetic for women. In addition, a result obtained from principal component analysis indicates that there are three components of the reason why females in East Africa wear the Kanga everyday; the Kanga is accepted cultural symbol, functional communication tool, and practical tool in daily life. In the present study, analysis of covariance structures was made for accounting interaction between wearing situation and acceptance of the Kanga. The result shows that, although the Kanga is folk costume, it is firmly rooted in daily life because of its easy usage. Mechanical and surface properties of the Kanga fabric have been examined using KES-F system in order to evaluate hand values. The obtained data show that hand values in KOSHI, HARI, FUKURAMI, and SHARI indicate large positive values, while SHINAYAKASA indicates a smaller one. Therefore, it can be mentioned that the Kanga fabric is basically suitable for warm climate like summer, because it can keep air gap between the body and the fabric due to high SHARI, HARI and KOSHI. On the other hand, if employed layered, the Kanga would provide with good thermal insulation under cold environments, because of the remaining still air between the clothing layers. Adaptable climate range of the Kanga clothing system was estimated through experiments using both thermal manikin and human subject. The adaptable range depends upon its wearing condition. In case the Kanga is employed as a skirt only, the adaptable climate ranges from 20 °C to 28 °C, which are equivalent to rainy season in coast area, e.g., Mombasa. On the other hand, if most of the whole body is covered with the Kanga, it enables people to stay in comfort from 10 °C to 24 °C, which is equal to the climate in Nairobi. The adaptable climate is easily manipulated in the Kanga clothing system. This is one of the main reasons why the folk costume Kanga is employed even now as daily wear
URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10457/1192
Appears in Collections:2010

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